Everything Is Under Control

A Recipe by Phyllis Grant

makes 1 heaping quart

Spring 2021 has brought on a massive craving for Creamsicle bars. I haven’t eaten one since the eighties so I’m thinking this desire might have something to do with the perfect cocktail of getting vaccinated, the possibility of a slow and beautiful emergence from a year of lockdown, and perimenopause. While this recipe isn’t for the traditional bars, each bite is still reminiscent of that iconic Creamsicle-style orange and dairy mash-up, just with no tricky dipping or layering or popsicle sticks involved.

Use any combination of oranges, tangerines, grapefruits, lemons, and limes (use the most of whatever citrus flavor you want to dominate). If you’re using mostly oranges, make sure to add the juice of a couple of lemons or limes or it will be too sweet. If you add blood oranges, the sherbet will be a stunning pink (like my book!).

It’s so refreshing by itself. Or try it topped with orange-zest flecked caramel sauce and toasted walnuts.

– 3 cups citrus juice (about 5-6 pounds of any combination of oranges, tangerines, grapefruit, lemons, limes)
– 2/3 cup white sugar, divided
– 2 tablespoons orange zest
– 2 teaspoons vanilla bean extract
– 1/2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt
– 2/3 cup heavy whipping cream
– 1/2 cup whole milk

In a large bowl, whisk together the citrus juice, 1/3 cup of the sugar, orange zest, vanilla bean extract, and salt.

In a medium bowl, vigorously whisk the heavy whipping cream and remaining 1/3 cup sugar until soft peaks form. Gently whisk the whipped cream and milk into the citrus juice mixture.

Cover and chill in the fridge for a few hours or overnight.

Before churning, set a container or two large enough to accommodate about 4 ½ cups of sherbet in the freezer (loaf pans and wide-mouth jars work well). The mixture will have separated while chilling so gently whisk it back together. Churn the sherbet base in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s directions. It’s done when the sherbet looks like it’s moving in one solid piece along with the paddle. You can also stop the machine and swipe the sherbet with your finger. If it stays put, it’s done. If it’s soft and caves in on itself, it needs more time. Transfer the sherbet to the chilled containers, cover, and freeze for at least an hour before scooping and serving.

Phyllis Grant is an IACP finalist for Personal Essays/Memoir Writing and a three-time Saveur Food Blog Award finalist for her blog, Dash and Bella. She has cooked in world-renowned restaurants, including Nobu, Michael’s, and Bouley. Her essays and recipes have been published in a dozen anthologies and cookbooks, including Best Food Writing in both 2015 and 2016. Her work has been featured in Esquire, O, The Oprah MagazineThe New York TimesReal SimpleSaveurHuffPostTimeSan Francisco ChronicleFood52, and Salon. She lives in Berkeley, California, with her husband and two children.